The Great Geysir
OpenOne of the greatest natural attractions of Iceland and part of the famous "Golden Circle Tour", The Great Geysir, or Stori-Geysir, has been dormant since 1916 when it suddenly ceased to spout. It came to life only once in 1935, and as quickly went back to sleep. Since then its repose has sporadically been disturbed by the dumping of tons of carbolic soap powder into its seething orifice in order to tickle it to spout.
It is not exactly known when Geysir was created. It is believed that it came into existence around the end of the 13th century when a series of strong earthquakes, accompanied by a devastating eruption of Mt. Hekla, hit Haukadalur, the geothermal valley where Geysir is located. What is known is that it spouted regularly every third hour or so up to the beginning of the 19th century and thereafter progressively at much longer intervals until it completely stopped in 1916. Whether its silence is eternal or temporary no one knows.
When it was alive and shooting, it could thunderously blast a spectacular jet of superheated water and steam into the air as high as 60 to 80 meters according to different sources. Its opening is 18 meters wide and its chamber 20 meters deep. One reason for cessation is believed to be the accumulated rocks and foreign objects thrown into it by thousands of tourists throughout the years. Though definitely damaging, this however could not be the only reason for its dormancy.
The Great Geysir was among the most notable geysers in the world, such as those in Yellowstone Park, New Zealand and North Iceland. The English word "geyser" is derived from the Icelandic word "geysir" which means gusher. Though the Great Geysir itself is now more or less inactive, the area surrounding it is geothermically very active with many smaller hot springs. The attraction of the area is now Strokkur (The Churn), another geyser 100 meters south of the Great Geysir, which erupts at regular intervals every 10 minutes or so and its white column of boiling water can reach as high as 30 meters.
The whole area is a geothermal park sitting on top of a vast boiling cauldron. Belching sulphurous mud pots of unusual colors, hissing steam vents, hot and cold springs, warm streams, and primitive plants can all be found here. A short distance away to the west stands the small Laugarfjall Mountain with a panoramic view overlooking the Geysir area. King Christian IX of Denmark visited the area in 1874 and by the foot of the mountain are the rocks where he leaned while his hosts tried to impress and amuse him by boiling eggs in the hot springs. The rocks are now called Konungssteinar ("The King's Stones").
Blahnukur in Landmannalaugar
OpenDynkur in Thjorsa river
OpenDyrholaey
OpenDyrhólaey is a 120-metre high promontory, not far from Vík. The place got its name from the massive arch that the sea has eroded from the headland. (The name literally means "door-hole"). When the sea is calm, big boats can sail through it. There has even been a maniacal daredevil pilot that flew through the arch with a small-craft airplane!
From the top of Dyrhólaey there is a great view. The headland is thought to have been made in an underwater volcanic eruption late in the glacial period, not unlike the eruption of Surtsey. Several outcrops are in the sea, the highest one called Háidrangur ("High column") is 56 m. high. Dyrhólaey has been a natural reserve since 1978. The promontory is widely known among sailors as "Portland", and English trawler fishermen ubeach where one can climb (at your own risk).
According to legend the Reynisdrangar needles were formed when two trolls were trying to drag a three-masted ship to land. When daylight broke they turned to stone. The Needles can be seen clearly from the village of Vík and are 66 meters above sea level at their highest. In one of the many caves here – there is a local legend about a monster having lived here for many centuries. The monster seems to have disappeared after a landslide over 100 years ago…sed to call it "Blow hole". There are also amazing rock formations all along the Birdlife here is abundant, with puffins and eider ducks being the most common species in the area. The lighthouse on the top of the cliff stands impressive and stoic in this often very windy area. Be careful not to go too close to the ledge of this dramatic cliff. You should not miss going down to the black beach to see some of the incredible stone fissures there and to be chased by the waves in this truly extraordinary place.
It is also great fun to venture down on the black beach in this area. The waves are often quite impressive and many people enjoy being chased by them up the beach. Although people have actually surfed here (under optimal conditions in wet suits), the rip tides and currents are devious and one should never attempt to go into the water! Leave the swimming to the numerous seals which one often can see in the are.
Eyjafjallajokull Glacier
OpenThe Eyjafjallajökull glacier is a 1666 m high glacier-capped stratovolcano. It is one of the smaller glaciers of Iceland. It is situated to the north of Skógar and to the south and west of the bigger glacier Mýrdalsjökull. The icecap of the glacier covers a volcano (1666m in height) which has erupted relatively frequently since the Ice Age. The crater of the volcano has a diameter of 3-4 km and the glacier covers an area of about 100 km². In June 1994 an earthquake swarm lasting for nearly a month occurred below the active volcano Eyjafjallajökull in South Iceland. It is otherwise a relatively quiet volcano – although it is not listed as being inactive. Eyjafjallajökull erupted last in 1821-1823.
The south end of the mountain was once part of the Atlantic coastline. As the sea has since retreated some 5 km, the former coastline has left behind sheer cliffs with a multitude of beautiful waterfalls, the best known of them being Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss. In strong winds, the water of some of the smaller falls can even be blown up the mountain.
It is one of the three glaciers that surround the Thorsmörk area - the other 2 being Myrdalsjökull and Tindfjallajökull. Specialized tours are arranged on the glacier for both skiing, superjeep tour and hiking. One should never venture onto the glacier without guides and good knowlege of these kind of activities as this is a very dangerous area for unexperienced visitors.
Haifoss and Granni
OpenHellar i Landssveit
OpenBiggest manmade cave in Iceland
Three manmade caves, Hellnahellir is the biggest manmade cave in Iceland, about 200 metres square. It is mentioned in manuscripts from 1332. The cave is open by arrangement.
It has good acoustics, concerts have been held in it and the bishop of Iceland has held a holy service there.
Other places of interest in the areaHjalparfoss Waterfall
OpenHjalparfoss is a beautiful, two stepped waterfall near the confluence of Rivers Thjorsa and Fossa in the Thjorsa Valley. The surrounding area is called Hjalp (Help), because the travellers across the Sprengisandur Route found great help in reaching a vegetated area to graze their horses after a long journey in the barren interior.
As elsewhere in the valley, the signs of the eruptions of Mt. Hekla are very prominent by the waterfall, ashes everywhere.
Other places of interest in the areaHrafntinnusker
OpenJokulheimar
OpenKaldakvisl river
OpenThe Upper area starts at Waterfall Nefja and ends at Ford Trippavad. This is a fly-fishing area, which is accessed by the nearby River Tungnaa Bridge. A 4wd track leads all the way to the waterfall. The best fishing spots are below the waterfall and in the long and deep pool about 300 m downriver. Further downriver are more good fishing spots. Find a map here. Anglers fishing this area also have access to River Tungnaa between 15;00 and 23;00. The Lower area starts at Ford Trippavad and ends at the confluence. All kinds of bait are permitted. Good fishing spots are by the cliff to the right of the end of the track and down by the confluence. River Tungnaa is included between 07;00 and 12;00. If the catch is good, it is recommended to release some of it. It is important to handle the fish with gloves to prevent burns, which might kill it. The surroundings of both rivers are natural pearls, and the anglers are expected to leave it intact and not to drive off road. The leaseholders and inspectors expect the anglers to turn in fishing reports and enter the catch into the catch book. Every autumn returned fishing reports are put in a pot and two lucky anglers are randomly picked to enjoy a fishing day of their choice next season, everything included. The results of the draw are published on www.hrauneyjar.is and the prize has to be picked up before the end of the year. Poaching is a serious matter and is treated with a fine of Ikr. 10.000.oo per rod. Surveillance in the area has been increased.
Fishing permits for these rivers are available at Highlandcentre Hrauneyjar.
Kerlingarfjöll Mountains
OpenThe area is full of small steaming hot springs, mudpools and water fountains. It is truly a hikers paradise. It is one of the largest geothermal areas in all of Europe and there are future plans to construct a large geothermal steam plant here for electricity to harness the massive amounts of energy stored here. The area is very unique, sensitive and beautiful - why such a decision may be controversial if proper conservational steps are not taken when doing so.
It is recommended to use 4wd vehicles because of the various and changing condition of the tracks and unbridged rivers, which have to be forded with the greatest of care. It is also recommended that people read the special brochure on driving in the interior before heading up there and remember, that off road driving is strictly forbidden. Many of those who have visited the interior catch the bug and the only remedy is to come back again and again. It is like an incurable disease. Travelling across the interior was common during the Saga period, but after that up to the middle of the 18th century, superstition kept people away. Nowadays - more and more people enjoy this part of the country the whole year round.
The small glacier patches up there have been retreating fast and now the summer skiing school, which was operated for decades, exists no more. Its complex of houses is now being used to accommodate travelers in the area during the summer months. Other places of interest in the area
Kvislarveita lakes
OpenLakes Kvíslarveita. About 50 – 80 km distant from Hotel Highland / Hrauneyjar. The National Electricity Authority started work on the Kvislaveita Project in 1980. It was divided into five phases, and four of them were finished in 1985, when dams had been constructed to divert water flowing to River Thjorsa to Lake Thorisvatn. The lakes have an area of 21 square km and are connected by man made canals. They are in a sensitive area of natural beauty and provide very good fishing for trout.
Fishing licences are sold in Hrauneyjar
Other places of interest in the areaLakgigar and Laki
OpenLakagígar, are a part of Vatnajokull glacier National Park.
The area contains some of the world’s most remarkable geological formations while the plant and animal life is also of special interest. Because the area is very sensitive to encroachment, the aim of the conservation order is to preserve this unique and extremely sensitive area so that future generations can enjoy it in the same manner as we do now.
Geology
The Lakagígar eruption 1783 was the largest eruption since the settlement of Iceland and the accompanying lava flow (Eldhraun) was the third largest on earth since the last ice age1. Lakagígar (the Laki crater rows) were formed during 1783-1784. The name stems from the central peak in the area, Laki. Earthquakes shook the area for several days before the eruption began on Whit Sunday, June 8, 1783, with thunderous booms, ash falls and the stench of sulphur. The Lakagígar crater row sits on 10 parallel fissures, each of which is 2–5 km (1.5–3 miles) long. At the southern end of the crater row stands the mountain Hnúta, where the first fissure opened. The eruptions came in intervals generally accompanied by frequent earth tremors. During each eruption period, a new explosion fissure opened to the north of the existing sites of eruption. It is now thought that there was probably a total of ten periods of volcanic activity within these infamous eight months. Thus, there is a continuous row of craters on the volcanic fissure, with the largest crater in the middle. Around 135 craters were formed during the eruption period. During Skaftáreldar (“Fires of the Skaftá river”), a 200—500m (600—1650 ft) wide rift valley formed that stretched for 2 km (1.5) in a southwesterly direction from Laki, the valley is now hidden under volcanic gravel. Two fissures can clearly be seen on the slopes of Laki (818m, 2684 ft), in the middle of the crater row, towering 200m (656 ft) above the surrounding area.
The lava that flowed out of the Laki craters covers 0.5% of the area of Iceland. It flowed in two branches – Eldhraun, the western branch, and Brunahraun to the east . The westerly lava flow poured out of fissures southwest of Laki, where the eruption started. The lava filled valleys and flowed over highland pastures in two channels. One of the channels filled Skaftá Gorge. The Skaftá River dried up on the third day of the eruption and by the fifth day, the lava had travelled 40 km (25 miles) and reached the coastal plain. By the end of July, the eruption subsided to the south of Laki but activity increased in the fissures to the north. A week later, the lava flowed down the course of the river Hverfisfljót, filling its canyon on the way. The river Hverfisfljót now follows a different course. Volcanic activity finally ended on February 7, 1784 – eight months after it had begun.
Landmannalaugar - Nature Reserve
OpenThe Fjallabak Nature Reserve, Peaceland between the mountains
The pearl of the central highlands, Landmannalaugar, and its surroundings are too colorful and magnificent to describe with words. It is situated in a valley between steep mountains, nestling at the high dark edge of the rhyolite lava field, Laugahraun. Many hot and cold springs mix and create a warm brook where you can bathe and relax.
The Fjallabak Nature Reserve was established in 1979. The Nature reserve is 47.000 hectares and is over 500 meters above see level. The land is mountainous, sculptured by volcanoes and geothermal activity, covered by lavas, sands, rivers and lakes.
The objective of Nature Reserve is to protect natural features so that forthcoming generations will have the opportunity to enjoy them as we do today. In order to achieve this the country code of conduct is enforced to prevent damage to nature and to the appearance of the land. The desolate wilderness and tranquillity are the main characteristics of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, which thousands of travellers enjoy every year. Guests in the area are reminded to abide by the code of the Nature Reserve so as to conserve its natural features and to support recreation in this popular area for the enjoyment of Future generations as our own.
The Fjallabak region takes its name from the numerous wild and rugged mountains with deeply incised valleys, which are found there. The topography of the Torfajökull, central volcano found within the Fjallabak Nature Reserve, is a direct result of the region being the largest rhyolite (liparite) area in Iceland and the largest geothermal area (after Grímsvötn in Vatnajökul).
The Torfajökul central volcano is an active volcanic system, but is now in a declining fumarolic stage as exemplified by numerous fumaroles and hot springs. The hot pools at Landmannalaugar are but one of many manifestations of geothermal activity in the area, which also tends to alter the minerals in the rocks, causing the beautiful colour variations from red and yellow to blue and green, a good example being Brennisteinsalda. Geologists believe that the Torfajökull central volcano is a caldera, the rim being Háalda, Suðurnámur, Norður Barmur, Torfajökull, Kaldaklofsfjöll and Ljósártungur
The bedrock of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve dates back 8-10 million years. At that time the area was on the Reykjanes – Langjökull ridge rift zone. The volcano has been most productive during the last 2 million years, that is during the last Ice Age Interglacial rhyolite lava ( in Brandsgil) and sub-glacial rhyolites (erupted under ice/water, examples being Bláhnúkur and Brennisteinsalda are characteristic formations in the area. To the north of the Torfajökull region sub-glacial volcanic activity produced the hyaloclastite (móberg) mountains, such as Loðmundur and Mógilshöfðar.
Volcanic activity in recent times (last 10.000 years) has been restricted to a few northeast – southwest fissures, the most recent one, the Veiðivötn fissure from 1480, formed Laugahraun (by the hut at Landmannalaugar), Námshraun, Norðurnámshraun, Ljótipollur and other craters which extend 30 km, further to the north
Weather The average temperature in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve is probably 0-1°C. Temperatures between 5-14°C may be expected in July and August, and in the winter the average temperature is about –6°C.
What to do. Motoring. The old horse track, Landmannaleið, lying between the settlements of Land and Skaftártunga parishes goes through the Fjallabak Nature Reserve ·However the most frequently used road into the Nature Reserve is the route (F208) from Sigalda which joins the old Landmannaleið (marked Dómadalsleið on road signs) by Frostastaðavatn. Both roads F208 and Landmannaleið have special dangers: gravel and rough surfaces, blind corners and unbridged rivers. These roads are only passable in July and August, due to snow and mud. The road between Landmannalaugar and Eldgjá is only recommended for four-wheel-drive vehicles, because of the many unbridged rivers and possible quicksand. Never attempt to cross a river which you cannot wade across and always drive slowly (in first gear), but firmly. Never attempt to drive along a track which in not marked on the map overleaf. Bear in mind that no petrol, oil and other provisions can be obtained in the Nature Reserve. Finally remember that it is illegal to drive or park cars off-road.
Walking. The Fjallabak Nature Reserve is well suited for walking. There are numerous opportunities for short and long hikes, some of which are marked on the map. The most popular hikes are to the summit of Bláhnúkur 940 m. (1-2 hours), and to the fumaroles by Brennisteinsalda 855m. (1-2 hours). Other interesting hikes include Háalda 1089m. (4-6 hours), around Frostastaðavatn (2-3 hours), Suðurnámur 951m. (1 hour) and Brandsgil (1-2 hours).When walking please keep the following in mind. Use a good map and keep to the footpaths, as it is easy to get lost. Good footwear is essential and even in summer warm clothes are necessary on the hilltops.
Exposure can be fatal to those inadequately equipped for sudden change in the weather, or overtaken be fatigue. Always leave word of where you are going and if in trouble contact the rangers at Landmannalaugar. Remember that all rock in the Nature Reserve is unsuitable for climbing and the best routes follow ridges or valley bottoms. Pleas do not tred on hot springs or boiling ground, as it can be soft and extremely dangerous. It is forbidden to throw stones or other objects into hot springs or pits. In most cases detour round vegetated areas, as they are marshy and are easily spoiled.
Fishing: The lakes in the Nature Reserve are known for their trout, the most popular lakes being Ljótipollur, Dómadalsvatn and Frostastaðavatn. Fishing permits can be bought.
Swimming: The hot springs at Landmannalaugar are suitable for swimming.
Grazing. Today the Nature Reserve is not unaffected by grazing, road building, tourism and power lines. Sheep grazing and fishing dates back many years. Landmannalaugar are the main centres when the farmers collect their flock in the beginning of September.
Tourism: Few people visited the area until the Touring Club of Iceland built its first hut there in 1952. Since then communications have greatly improved and people have more time to spare. Today 30.000 people visit the Nature Reserve during the summer.
Service: Highlandcentre at Hrauneyjar and Hotel Highland is situated at the edge of the country´s most impressive and active volcanic area of Iceland. The Highlendcentre is an ideal base for day trips to many of the most beautiful and popular tourist attractions in the highlands. Landmannalaugar is a popular place on the highland, both summer and winter, it is in only 32 km distance from Hrauneyjar highlandcentre.
The code of the Nature Reserve. When visiting the Fjallabak Nature Reserve take care to avoid damaging life and country remembering this Code.
Texti er tekinn af vef Náttúruverndar ríkisins
Langisor
OpenMT.Hekla the volcano
OpenMT. Hekla is one of the most famous volcanoe in the world
An active volcano for centuries, Mount Hekla is one of the most famous in the world. Old tales tell of the belief that the souls of the condemned traveled through Hekla's crater on their way to hell. The whole mountain ridge of Hekla is about 40 km long. The fissure which splits the mountain ridge is about 5,5 km long. The mountain is about 1491 m high and rising.
Over the past 7000 years Hekla has had five big fissure eruptions. The biggest eruptions were 4000 and 2800 years ago. Traces of these two eruptions can be found in the soil in the North and the North-East of Iceland. The biggest layer of tephra from one eruption fell in the eruption 2800 years ago. It covers about 80% of the country and its volume was around 12 cubic km. Traces of it has been found in various places all over Scandinavia and in parts of Europe.
It is thought that Hekla has had at least twenty eruptions since the settlement of Iceland. The biggest and first recorded eruption was in 1104, although very likely there had been many more during the time of Viking settlement. It is thought that Hekla has had at least twenty eruptions since the settlement of Iceland. The biggest eruption was in 1104. Hekla has erupted five times in the 20th century, the last time in February 2000.
The effects of the violent eruptions were disastrous. The whole island was strown with volcanic ash, which, where they did not smother the grass outright, gave it a poisonous taint. The cattle that ate of it were attacked by a murrain, of which great numbers died. The ice and snow, which had gathered about the mountain for a long period of time, were wholly melted by the heat. Masses of pumice weighing nearly half a ton were thrown to a distance of between four and five miles.
Hekla eruptions since the settlement of Iceland
Other places of interest in the areaMyrdalsjokull glacier
OpenSeljalandsfoss and Gljufrabui Waterfalls
OpenA unique waterfall in the river Seljalandsá, about 30 km west from Skógar. It is 60 meters high with a foot path behind it at the bottom of the cliff, but with a thin cascade. It is the only known waterfall of its kind, where it is possible to walk behind it. The waterfall is very picturesque and therefore its photo can be found in many books and calendars.
Access to the waterfall is from the farm of Seljaland along the Ring Road, Iceland's main highway. A little further to the west there are several other falls, among them the interesting Gljúfrabúi which is partially masked by its own canyon. Access to it is from Hamragarðar farm along the road, east of Markarfljót.
Both of these “do-not-miss” attractions lie very close to the main Ring Road at the base of the Eyjafjallajökull Glacier, on the road leading in to Thorsmörk.
Skaftafell National park
OpenSkaftafell is Iceland's second largest National Park after Thingvellir. It lies in the Glacier Country, a remote but attractive part of the south. The park covers an area of about 1,600 km2 which spreads over three valley glaciers of Skeiðarárjökull, Morsárjökull and Skaftafellsjökull on the southern fringes of Vatnajökull. Founded in 1956, the park is one of Icelands distinctive natural attractions of extravagant beauty.
Most visitors concede that even by Icelandic standards it is unique. Nowhere in the country is the natural variety and contrast as abundant and evident as in Skaftafell. Vast glaciers, ice-blue glacial lakes with silent icebergs, forbidding crevasses, mute peaks, jagged rocks, gulches, canyons, hanging valleys, shimmering ice tunnels, giant grotesque ice-arches, ice-falls, mountain torrents, roaring glacial rivers, ice-cold mountain streams flowing in ravines with luxuriant vegetation and wild flowers, waterfalls, basalt columns of most unusual configurations, rare birds and plants, birch forest, lush vegetation, and many other natural marvels have created this tellurian spectacle.
It is no wonder that the park is one of the most visited in Iceland during the summer, both by Icelanders and foreigners alike. Part of its popularity lies in the fact that it allows close exploration of the massive Vatnajökull glacier. Skaftafell is also endowed with more sunshine hours than other parts in the south, as well as mild weather since it is shielded from rain and wind by Öræfajökull.
Svartifoss (name means "Black waterfall"), the famous waterfall dropping from the edge of a broad columnar basalt cliff which looks like the round wall of an amphitheatre, has become the symbol of Skaftafell National Park. The unusual configuration of the hexagonal basalt columns, most of them hanging from the lip of the cliff, has been the inspiration source for the architectural design of the National Theatre in Reykjavík. The route from the campsite to Svartifoss is one of the most trodden in the park and it takes about an hour to walk to the fall and return to the campsite, a journey well worth taking.
To protect the natural character of the park and its delicate flora and fauna, certain rules apply to the use of the park for hiking and trekking. In main areas of the park, such as the Skaftafellsheiði moorland, visitors must keep to the designated routes in order not to damage the fragile plants. Camping permits must be obtained from the park headquarters for camping in other places in the park. Climbing up the glaciers without authorized guides and proper equipment is not advised.
Vatnajökull is an amazing natural wonder. Located in the south-east of the island, it covers more than 8% of the country. With an impressive size of 8,100 km², it is the largest glacier in Europe. The average thickness of the ice is 400 m, with a maximum thickness of 1000 m. Iceland's highest mountain, Öræfajökull (2,110 m), is located in the southern periphery of Vatnajökull, near Skaftafell National Park. It is classified as an ice cap glacier.
Under the glacier, as under many of the glaciers of Iceland, there are several volcanoes. Vatnajökull has been shrinking for some years now, possibly because of climatic changes and recent volcanic activity.
Skogafoss - Waterfall
OpenThe greatest attraction of Skógar is of course the beautiful 60-metre high Skogáfoss waterfall in the river Skógá. Like the legends of buried treasures of Egill Skallagrímsson in Mosfell near Reykjavík and Ketilbjörn in Mosfell near Skálholt, there is a similar legend about the settler Þrasi who is believed to have buried his chest of gold under the Skogáfoss waterfall.
If the sun conditions are favourable - one can see a vivid rainbow in front of the waterfalls. The river below the falls holds a large salmon and char population and fisherman are seen here fishing July - October. The path leading to the top of the waterfalls continues following the river upstream - where numerous more dramatic waterfalls of sheer beauty are to be found. A great hike - to say the least!
One of the finest folk museums in Iceland is situated in extraordinarily beautiful natural surroundings. The interesting local folk museum has a collection of over 6000 artifacts and examples of various types of dwellings in Iceland since the early times. The collection of tools and equipment used at land and sea is outstanding. The museum also has an old turf farmhouse, where guests can experience the standards of living in Iceland in past centuries.
From Skógar the Ring Road runs eastwards along the foot of Mýrdalsjökull glacier, across the southern sandy plains and over glacial rivers, passes Seljavellir and continues along the soaring glaciated massive of Eyjafjöll and the two waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrabúi. From here runs a 10 km long trek along the river Skógá over the Fimmvörðuháls Pass between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers to the mountain oasis of Þórsmörk.
Skógar is a place to explore the natural diversity of the south or, if the weather is good, to spend a holiday amid beautiful and rugged landscapes. It is also very close to the ocean and the unique black bea
Other places of interest in the area
Sprengisandur
OpenYou pass on rough roads through rivers, canyons, valleys, passes and peaks through a seemingly endless vastness and raw nature in a landscape that is always constantly changing in appearance. One will never forget a trip taken through the interior of what many call “the last frontier in Europe”. Other places of interest in the area
Sprengisandur
OpenStong Commonwealth Farm
OpenSome early settlers of Iceland chose the fertile valley of Thjorsádal as the site for their farmsteads. They were unaware of the fact that the tranquil-looking, snow-capped mountain towering on the south was an active volcano. In 1104, there was a massive eruption in Mt. Hekla, and In 1939 Scandinavian archaeologists excavated Stöng and revealed what was left of the smothered Saga-age farm. The findings provided fresh data about the design and construction of Viking long-houses and their evolution up to the 12th century and other valuable information about the period known as the Commonwealth.the settlement in Thjorsádal was buried under tons of volcanic debris and ash.
In 1974, on the 1100th anniversary of the settlement of Iceland, architect Hordur Agustsson and a team of historians pieced together the available data and meticulously constructed a replica of Stöng at Skeljastadir, a few kilometers down the valley.
The reconstructed farm is called Thjodveldisbaer (Commonwealth Farm), and is perhaps the best representation of Icelandic medieval dwelling. What is actually left of the original farm at Stöng are some stone foundations, now covered by a large protective wooden shelter.
Stöng is also known for being the home of the prominent farmer and warrior Gaukur Trandilsson, who according to a brief account in Njáls Saga, was killed by Asgrimur Ellida-Grimsson, his foster-brother, in a duel of honor apparently over Gaukur's affair with a kinswoman of Grimsson. In the 19th century some old bones were discovered in a steep cliff on the north bank of Thjorsá River, further down the valley, supposed to be those of Gaukur from Stöng. The place is called Gaukshofdi (Gaukur's bluff).
Other places of interest in the area
The Westman Islands
OpenWestman Islands are also called Vestmannaeyjar. The largest island is called Heimaey and is the only one of the islands that is inhabited. The island was first settled in 930 A.D., although some sources (with evidence supporting) claim that fishing village had been established there 300 years earlier and that, by that time, Irish monks had already been to Heimaey, too.
The islands are also the only part of Iceland to have endured violent foreign invasion. In the 15th century, the English came to Iceland to trade and occasionally to raid. They kidnapped one governor of Iceland and killed another, and bought local children, which gave rise to the contemporary legend that Icelanders gave away their children but sold their dogs dearly. Their headquarters were on Heimaey, where they built the fortress Skansinn which still remains. But after a war with the Danes and the Hanseatic League in 1468-73, the English withdrew.
A more violent invasion was the “The Turkish Raid” in 1627. Actually, this was launched by Algerians, Moroccan-converted Europeans and commanded by a Dutchman. But as the captives were taken to Algeria, then a suzerainty of the Ottoman Sultan in Constantinople, the raid was blamed on the Turks. It was not until the 1970s that a contemporary law stating that any Turk found in Iceland should be killed on sight was withdrawn. Thankfully, this was never enforced.
The Turks killed and captured some 400 people, most of these from Heimaey, and burned down the church and the warehouse. Ten years later, 27 of the captives were ransomed back to Iceland. The place where the Turks came ashore is still called “Ræningjatangi”, or robber’s peninsula.
Heimaey has a population of about 4800 residents. Its economy is primarily based on commercial fishing. Over 50 fishing vessels work out from Vestmannaeyjar employing over 500 people. Two large fishing plants and several smaller ones employ another 400 residents.The island has a hospital, retirement home and apartments for the elderly, several nursery schools, two elementary schools and one secondary school. A scientific research institute operates in cooperation with the University of Iceland and the town of Vestmannaeyjar.
An eruption on Heimaey in 1973 destroyed 417 houses and the island needed to be evacuated during the night. Over 5000 town residents left in a hurry on sea or air and the eruption added a total of 250 million cubic meters of new volcanic material to the island. To save the port people used sea to stop and re-direct the lava flow and today the Vestmannaeyjar port is good, one of the best in the world in fact.
The Vestmannaeyjar´s natural majesty is rich sea and bird life and the island is also home to a burgeoning ecotourism industry. Visitors can tour the island both on land and sea and a visit to the aquarium devoted to local wildlife is an experience one should not miss. The Vestmannaeyjar archipelago is group of 15 islands first formed by volcanic eruptions some 10.000 years ago. The latest island, Surtsey, formed in 1963 in an eruption from the bottom of the ocean.
The puffin colony in Vestmannaeyjar is the largest in the world. Millions of Atlantic puffins return to Vestmannaeyjar each spring and summer and provide base for a traditional, seasonal industry. Residents collect puffin eggs and hunt birds using nets, according to an elaborate and age-old set of rules and ethics. Annual catches do not exceed 1% of the total puffin population.
The island is well known for cliff-hanging, a sport centuries old and involves climbing and descending the island’s most dramatic rock formations using ropes suspended from the cliff tops. Children and teenagers still practice this sport for its own sake as well as a puffin-hunting technique. Island’s children also save young puffins that have lost their way and direct them to the ocean. They also compete which puffin flies the farthest.
Two overlooks with interpretive signage give breathtaking views of Klettsvik Bay and the town of Vestmannaeyjar. East of Eldfell is a monument to Guðlaugur Fridþórsson, who swam for six hours to reach shore in 1984, when his boat sank five kilometers east of Heimaey.
At Hamarinn, on western Heimaey, there is a monument to Jón Vigfússon, who in 1928, scaled what is considered an unclimbable vertical cliff after his boat stranded, thereby saving the lives of his comrades as well as his own. A small sanctuary or oasis in the middle of the lava field called Eldfellshraun is cultivated by Erlendur Stefánsson and Guðfinna Ólafsdóttir. It throws into high relief the great contrasts in Vestmannaeyjar landscape.
One of the best 18-hole golf courses in Iceland can be found on the island. It is situated in an old volcanic crater under steep cliffs. In spring there is a deep-sea fishing contest and a jazz festival. In summer the islanders host the national soccer tournaments for children and the annual islands festival is in August. Cliff scaling on ropes, can be observed, horses can be rented and many marked hiking trails up volcanoes, over lava fields and through puffin colonies interest visitors. Bird watching is great on the island and the island has a good swimming pool with sauna and hot tubs. A movie about the eruption and rebuilding of the town can be seen and the Folk and Art Museum should not be missed
Thingvellir, National park
OpenÞingvellir (Icelandic "Þing": parliament, "vellir": plains) is a place in the southwest of Iceland near the peninsula of Reykjanes and the Hengill volcanic area.
It is famous for two reasons:
As one of the most important places in Icelandic history. In the year 930 the Alþingi, one of the oldest parliamentary institutions of the world, was founded. The Alþingi met yearly, where the Lawspeaker recited the law to all of the gathered people and decided disputes as well. In the year 999 or 1000 the Lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði made Christianity the official religion of Iceland. After the conversion it is said that, upon returning from the Alþingi, Þorgeir then threw his statues of the old Norse gods into the waterfall that is now named Goðafoss ("Waterfall of the Gods"). At this historical place, the independence of the Republic of Iceland was proclaimed on June 17, 1944.
As a national park (since 1928) because of the special tectonic and volcanic environment. The continental drift can be clearly seen in the cracks or faults which are traversing the region, the biggest one, Almannagjá, being a veritable canyon. This causes also the often measurable earthquakes in the area.
Þingvellir is situated on the northern shore of Þingvallavatn, the biggest lake of Iceland. The river Öxará traverses the national park and is forming a waterfall at the Almannagjá, called Öxaráfoss Together with the waterfall Gullfoss and the geysirs of Haukadalur, Þingvellir is part of the most famous sights of Iceland, the Golden Circle.
Þingvellir is a designated UNESCO World Heritag Site
Thingvellir, 50 km (31 miles) to the east of Reykjavík, is the national shrine of Iceland. Icelands most historic site, and one of its most beautiful places, it is also part of The Golden Circle tour. The oldest existing parliament in the world first met here in AD930. The Alþing met here every year to enact laws, including the law passed in AD1000 to introduce Christianity into the island. It has always been the focal point for the country, and whenever a major event is to be celebrated, thousands of people come here. At the celebration of the 1,100th anniversary of the first settlement in 1974, more than 60,000 people packed into Thingvellir.
Nearby Lögberg is the cliff overlooking the place where the Alþing (assembly) met, and speakers stood to address the gatherings from this point. Nearby is Drekkingarhylur (The Drowning Pool), where mothers of illegitimate children were drowned. It is sited in the river Öxará in Almannagjá, a lava gorge, which with the Öxarárfoss waterfall, is an impressive sight.
Peningagjá (The Money Chasm) is a deep fissure filled with crystal clear spring water; people throw coins into it from the bridge that lies across. The coins give off strange reflections as they drop through the water, it is said that if you can follow the coin all the way down until it comes to rest on the bottom, your wish will come true. Scubadiving and snorkeling in wet suits is becoming increasingly popular here.
There is an old church at Thingvellir. Beside the church is the national burial ground.
Thingvallavatn is the largest lake in Iceland, 83sq km (32sq miles) and over 100m (328ft) deep. The only outflow from lake Thingvallavatn is the river Sog, a famous salmon river with beautiful blue water. The lake's catchment area is 90% underground and the water from the thousands of cold springs has a constant temperature of 3-4°C the whole year round.
The anglers, who use boats for their fishing, have to be careful and watch out for changes in the weather. The lake becomes a boiling pot, when the wind starts blowing. The catch in the lake has always been a necessary part for the survival of the farming families on the lake. They have netted the lake traditionally for centuries. Angling permits are sold in the little shop and visitors centre in the camping area or at Hotel Valholl. The catch consists of brown trout and lake char.
It is said that these fish became isolated in the lake in the wake of the last ice age when the terrain rose at the south end of Þingvallavatn. These two species are a living testimony to how the evolution of species occurs in nature, as over a period of 10,000 years they have adapted themselves to various habitats in the lake. The constant, regular influx of groundwater into Lake Þingvallavatn, together with a very varied habitat, has created good conditions for fish and other life forms in the lake, to which they have adapted even more.This has resulted in the fact that both the brown trout and char in Thingvallavatn are amongst the largest to be found in the world. The trout are said to be as big as over 20 kg (max weight) and the char over 10 kg (max weight), which is at the max of both species size range.
The lake is part of the Þingvellir National Park. The volcanic origin of the islands in the lake is clearly visible. The fissures around it - the famous Almannagjá is the biggest of them - indicate that here the tectonic plates of Europe and The Americas are in a conflict. In this lake, the large quantity of sulfur and salt, the lake is extremely light and the water seems to be in less weight than other lakes.
Other places of interest in the areaThjorsadalur Valley and Gjain gorge.
OpenThis beautiful natural phenomenum and oasis at the edge of the central highlands should not be passed by, if you are travelling in the Thjorsar Valley. The Red River (Rauda) cascades into and through this gorge and the surroundings are amply vegetated. River Thjorsa ran through before a dike was built between the mountains Sandafell and Skeljafell to redirect it.
One of the younger Tungnaa-Lavas ran down the gorge leaving a thin layer on its bottom and walls as well as a thicker layer on the edges. The lava formations are worth taking a closer look at. An easy 10 minutes' walk takes you into this beautiful area from the archaeological excavations at Stong and another approach is from the car track on the edge.
Some find this place so beautiful they (secretly) have strewn their ashes in the river to be forever be united with monumental nature in this "paradise on earth".
Other places of interest in the areaThorisvatn
OpenFishing licences are sold in Hrauneyjar Highlandcentre. Other places of interest in the area
Tjorsa river
OpenVatnajökull National Park
OpenThe Vatnajökull National Park, from a natural science point of view, will be unique in the world at large. Nowhere else is there such a combination of dynamic ice cap and outlet glaciers, frequently active sub-glacial volcanic activity and associated with massive outburst floods (jökulhlaup), and scenic mountain grandeur.
Europe’s largest national park, which was opened at the beginning of June, is located in south Iceland.
Vatnajokull National Park is made up of the old Jokulsargljufur and Skaftafell national parks, as well as the entire Vatnajokull glacier.
Vatnajokull is the biggest glacier in Europe by volume and blankets six active volcanoes under its 8,000 square kilometres of ice. Fire and ice are extreme contrasts; but the National Park’s sheer size is extreme too: 13,000 square kilometres, or 13 percent of the entire country.
Creating a national park over the whole glacier was partly a political move intended to draw attention to the rapid melting of Iceland’s glaciers and to aid researchers in highlighting the reasons.
Although partly created for scientists, the second big winners will be the tourists coming to the south of Iceland. The park aims to have completed construction of its second visitors’ centre shortly, and an additional four visitors’ centres will be completed by 2012.
As well as this, rangers’ stations will increase from four to 11 under the 10 million euro investment plan currently underway. Iceland hopes to see a total increase of five to seven percent in visitor numbers to the country over the next few years in return for the investment.
Veidivotn Lakes
OpenVeidivötn Lakes are a magnificent highland oasis. They are a friend in the desert, which no one should miss. The crater formations here are of a true extrarterrestrial character and environment something truly unique. The contrast between black sand and gin clear waters is very unique and many travelers find this to be the highlight of their visit.
This part of the country is among the youngest (1477) and wildest pearls of the central highlands. It comprises about 50 lakes of different sizes, most of which are so-called crater lakes. The area is about 20 km long and 5 km wide and has a southwest - northeast direction. The craters and the lakes lie in two rows. You have to ford the small river between the two Fossvotn lakes to get into the area. Most of the lakes are fed and discharged underground because the lava fields and the scoria are very permeable.
Some of the very best brown trout & arctic char fishing in Iceland (or anywhere) is found here. The lakes are rich in natural trout that are believed to be from one of the oldest stocks in Europe. They vary in size, 3-6 pounders being common, but they can occasionally reach up to incredible 25 lbs in size. They are known for their excellent taste, which many say is naturally spiced. Inquire about fishing here well in advance as the area is usually heavily booked.
The road from Veidivötn continues north to Jökulheimar on the west of Tungnaarjökull, one of the valley glaciers that "flows" from Vatnajökull. This is a destination that is still somewhat of a well-kept secret and undiscovered by foreign travelers. Usually the road here is open 15 June to the middle of October - only accesible by 4WD vehicles. This is a good place to "get away from it all" - the silence is often total, unbroken even by bird calls.
Other places of interest in the areaVolcano Katla
OpenMýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of Iceland. It is situated to the north of Vík í Mýrdal and to the east of the smaller glacier Eyjafjallajökull. Its peak reaches 1493 m in height and in 1980 it covered an area of 595 km². The view from here on a clear day is one of the prettiest in the world.
Guided snow scooter, snowmobile, superjeep, dog sledding and iceclimbing tours are offered on the Myrdalsjökull glacier. Travelers on the glacier have to be extremely careful about crevasses and inexperienced travelers should not go there alone. Weather conditions shift very rapidly here and high winds and snowstorms can appear in a flash all year round.
The volcano Katla, in the Mýrdalsjökull glacier, has erupted on average every 40 - 60 years. Sixteen eruptions have been recorded since the settlement of Iceland, the last in 1918, but there have probably been more, perhaps 20 in all. Katla is one of the most famous volcanoes in the country, and its eruptions usually have very serious consequences. It can actually be regarded as one of the most powerful volcanoes in the world.
The glacier above the volcanic vent melts and the melt-water collects under the ice-cap until it makes its way out under the edge in a violent flood. These are called "Jokulhlaup". Huge amounts of ice and sand carried along by the floodwater, and anything in the path of the flood-tide is destroyed. Most of the Mýrdalssandur sand plain has been formed by deposits in past floods. At the peak of the 1755 eruption the flood discharge has been estimated between 200000-400000m³/s, for comparison the combined average discharge of the Amazon, Mississippi, Nile, and Yangtze is about 290000m³/s!
Katla has been showing signs of unrest recently and Geologist suspect that it might erupt in the near future, since it is way overdue to erupt. Were the eruption to take place on the western side of the (which has happened before), it would have catastrophic consequences for the Thorsmörk, Fljotshlid and Landeyjar areas. Evacuation plans have been set up in case of new eruptions, which are inevitable to take place one day, and one estimates that the evacuation time from the time of eruption to serious flooding is between 2 to 4 hours.
Eruptions of Katla have taken place (since known and recognized human settlement): 1918, 1860, 1823, 1755-56, 1721, 1660-61, 1625, 1612, 1580, 1416, 1357, 1311, 1262, 1245, 1177, 950
Other places of interest in the area Thorsmork , Myrdalsjokull glacier , Eyjafjallajokull Glacier

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